Saturday, February 2, 2019

Santa Maria dell'Orto

where: Via Anicia, 10 Trastevere
getting there: from Termini bus 40 or 64 to Largo di Torre Argentina/tram 8 to Piazza Mastai, then left onto Via di San Francesco e Ripa (past San Francesco e Ripa), left onto Via Anicia
open: 9:30-12:30 & 15:30-18:30 closed August

Santa Maria dell'Orto (Saint Mary of the Garden) is a 16th century Baroque church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in the Trastevere neighbourhood. It belonged to the guild of greengrocers, shoe makers and chicken sellers (to name a few) who donated money for the church construction and decoration.

The inside is quite beautiful with ornate gilding and stucco decorations. The wonderful nave ceiling fresco of the Assumption is by Giacinto Calandrucci. This was completed in 1706, the year before his death.
The round ceiling frescoes were by Andrea and Giuseppe Orazi, and Giovanni Battista Parodi.
The marble floor has some colourful inlays of fruit and vegetables giving a nod to the fruit and vegetable marketeers.
In the first chapel on the right is an altarpiece by Taddeo Zuccari.

The church holds a number of altarpieces and canvases by Giovanni Baglione. In the third chapel on the right is the Madonna, Child and Saints which dates from 1630. On the left in the chapel dedicated to Saint Sebastian, are an altarpiece and side wall decorations, and in the third chapel is another canvas of the Madonna and Child, and two more paintings on either wall.

At the main altar is an icon of the Madonna and Child, surrounded by golden rays and vibrant apse frescoes.
Giacinto Calandrucci


Giovanni Baglione


Taddeo Zuccari

Artists in Santa Maria dell'Orto
Giuseppe & AndreaOrazi
Giacinto Calandrucci
Andrea Procaccini
Giovanni Battista Parodi
Corrado Giaquinto

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Helpful Hints

Getting Around

I found walking Rome was the best way to see everything.

The metro, trams and buses are also an easy and cheap option.

Buses and the metro can get crowded. Tickets must be bought before boarding and validated.

Beware of pickpockets.

Buses 40 (express) and 64 start at Termini and end near Saint Peter's, traveling past places of interest, returning the same way.

Some stops along the 64 route are:


Piazza Venezia

Via Nazionale

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

Bus 75 takes you past the Colosseum to Trastevere

Bus 910 takes you to Villa Borghese

Ticket Options

€1.50 B.I.T (Biglietto Integrato a Tempo) is the standard ticket valid for one metro, unlimited tram or bus rides within 100 minutes.

€7.00 B.I.G ( Biglietto Integrato a Giornaliero) is a daily ticket valid for unlimited metro, tram, bus and train travel within Rome.

Purchasing Bus and Metro tickets.

Newsstands, train stations, metro stations, kiosks with the ATAC logo and tabacchi shops sell tickets for the metro, trams and buses.

Large fines apply to travelers not holding or validating their ticket. Tickets once validated start from the time they have been stamped.

These are a few of my favourite books about Rome

The Cardinal's Hat by Mary Hollingsworth
This book tells the story of one of the sons of Lucrezia Borgia who became a cardinal during the 16th century.

The Tigress of Forli by Elizabeth Lev
I love this book telling the story of Caterina Sforza who was fighting against the Borgia pope to retain the rights of her land and her freedom.

The Popes by John Julius Norwich
A detailed but easy and enjoyable book to read about the history of the papacy and the popes.

The Pope's Daughter by Caroline P Murphy
This book describes in beautiful detail, the life and times of Pope Julius II daughter, Felice della Rovere.

The Families Who Made Rome by Anthony Majanlahti
I love this Book! It explains the families who made Rome what it is as we see it today and also looks at their triumphs, scandals and failures.

Rome by Robert Hughes
This book explains Rome from its beginning and expands on the Renaissance and Baroque until present times.

The Lost Painting by Jonathan Harr
Another of my favourite reads about a lost Caravaggio painting and the search for its provenance.

other sites I trust for information on Rome are:
Rome Art Lover
Churches of Rome wiki