Saturday, July 26, 2014

Cesare Nebbia


Cesare Nebbia c.1536 - c.1614
Cesare Nebbia was born in Orvieto some time around 1536. He was the student of Girolamo Muziano and worked with him decorating the cathedral in Orvieto between 1562 and 1575, completing altarpieces and frescoes, much of which is now in the Museo Opera Duomo in Orvieto, next-door to the cathedral.
He was next documented in Rome in 1576 with the commission to paint the frescoes in the Oratorio del Gonfalone and then working with Muziano and other artists on the Gregorian chapel decorations in Saint Peter's for Pope Gregory XIII.
Cesare Nebbia and Girolamo Muziano worked together on many projects in Rome along with Muziano's other student, Giovanni Guerra and in 1586, during the papacy of Pope Sixtus V, Nebbia and Guerra were commissioned to complete two frescoes for the Capella Sistina in Santa Maria Maggiore, along with fellow artists Paul Bril, Giovanni Baglione and Paris Nogari.
He designed the mosaic pendentives of saints Matthew and Mark in Saint Peter's Basilica, commissioned by Pope Clement VIII and was the Principal of the Accademia di San Luca in 1597.

Cesare Nebbia Art in Rome
Trinità dei Monti (Borghese Chapel)
Crucifixion
Santa Maria ai Monti 
Coronation of the Virgin
Santa Maria Maggiore (Sforza Chapel)
Oratorio del Santissamo Crocifisso
Santa Susanna
Oratorio del Gonfalone
Saint Peter's
San Giovanni in Laterano
Scala Santa
Santa Maria sopra Minerva
Chiesa Nuova
Santo Spirito in Sassia

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

where: Piazza della Minerva
open: Monday to Friday 6:55-19:00, Saturday 10:00-12:30 and 15:00-19:00, Sunday 8:10-12:30 and 15:30-19:00
getting there: from the left of the Pantheon on Via della Minerva

Just around the corner from the Pantheon is the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva.
In front of the church is Bernini's famous sculpture of an Egyptian elephant carrying an obelisk, the Pulcino della Minerva.
The church itself dates back to the 13th century and was built on the site of a temple dedicated to the Roman goddess Minerva and is considered the only Gothic church in Rome. 

Inside the church are frescoes by Filippino Lippi, Fra Angelico, and Antoniazzo Romano, and altarpieces by il Baciccio and Carlo Maratta.
By the main altar there is the marble sculpture of Christ by Michelangelo

The church holds the tombs of Fra Angelico, Saint Catherine of Siena and of popes – Leo X, Clement VII and Urban VII.





Artists in Santa Maria sopra Minerva
Filippino Lippi
Fra Angelico
Antoniazzo Romano
Marcello Venusti
Lazzardo Baldi
Ventura Lamberti
Semolei
Girolamo Muziano
Cesare Nebbia
Federico Fiori
Andrea Sacchi
Giuseppe Puglia

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Santa Lucia in Selci

where: Via in Selci, 82
getting there: metro linea/B - Cavour, 2 minute walk
open: the church seems only to be open on Sunday mornings

The nunnery and church of Santa Lucia in Selci is a short walk from San Pietro in Vincoli and worthwhile a visit if you are lucky enough to find it open.
The church, dedicated to Saint Lucy the 4th century virgin saint, was originally built in the 8th century and remodeled by Carlo Maderno in 1604. It was again altered in the 17th century by Francesco Borromini who made many changes inside.

inside: The church has a single nave with three chapels on either side.
The beautifully decorated barrel vaulted ceiling showing the Glory of Saint Lucy dates to the 19th century and is by an unknown artist. 
The high altarpiece of the Annunciation is by Anastasio Fontebuoni.
At the first altar on the right is the Martyrdom of Saint Lucy by Giovanni Lanfranco and in the second chapel is the Vision of St Agustine by Andrea Camassei.
The Landi Chapel is the first chapel on the left and holds the Holy Trinity by Giuseppe Cesari, who also painted God the Father above the entrance of the church.

If you walk along the building near the church entrance you will see a door from the 15th century. This was used by poor and unwed mothers who left their unwanted babies here anonymously to be given into the care of the nuns.

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Sant'Eligio degli Orefici

where: Via di Sant'Eligio, 7
getting there: near Via Guilia
open: Monday to Friday 9:00-13:00 email info@universitadegliorefici.it for appointment

This little church, looking sadly neglected down a graffiti covered street, is thought to have been designed by Raphael for the Guild of the Goldsmiths and completed by Baldasare Peruzzi in the 16th century.
If you can get inside the apse frescoes date to 1575 and are of the Holy Trinity by Matteo da Lecce.
The side altars hold frescoes by Taddeo Zuccari, Giovanni de Vecchi and Giovanni Francesco Romanelli.

Santo Spirito Napoletani

where: Via Giulia, 34
getting there: half way down Via Giulia
open: Sundays 9:00-13:00

On Via Giulia, near the Arco Farnese, is Santo Spirito Napoletani. The church was built in the 16th century but heavily restored in the early 19th century.
The church seems to be only open on Sundays between 9am and 1pm, but if you have the chance to see inside you will find one of the last works of Luca Giordano in Rome that is said to date from 1705 depicting the Martyrdom of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples.
The dome painting is by Giuseppe Passeri and there is an altarpiece by Giuseppe Ghezzi and fresco by Antoniozzo Romano.
Above the door on the facade is a fresco from 18th century by Pietro Gagliardi depicting the Holy Spirit in Glory.

Sunday, July 6, 2014

Sant'Isidoro


where: Via degli Artisti, 41
getting there: metro - linea A/Barberini
open:  Sunday 10:00 for mass


Sant'Isidoro a Cape le Casa is just a two minute walk away from Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini up the Scala via Veneto.
Built in 1622, the late-Baroque convent church was dedicated to Saint Isidore, the farmer and patron saint of Seville.
The main altarpiece of Saint Isidoro is by Andrea Sacchi and dates from 1622.
In the Chapel of St Joseph there are paintings of the Immaculate Conception from 1633, by Carlo Maratta  who also decorated the cupola in the Chapel of the Crucifix.
In the Chapel of St Anne is the Madonna and Child by Pietro Paolo Naldini.
In the chapel of St Anthony of Padua is the altarpiece by Giovanni Domenico Cerrini.
The beautiful Madonna Chapel was designed by Gianlorenzo Bernini in 1663.
The church isn't often open to visitors but if by chance the door is open take the opportunity to have a quick look around.

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Carracci

Annibale Carracci
Assumption of the Virgin
Santa Maria del Popolo
The Carracci were a family of artists and engravers from Bologna.
Brothers Agostino (1557-1602) and Annibale (1560-1609) and cousin Ludovico (1555-1619) worked extensively in Bologna and later opened their own private teaching academy Academia delgi Incamminati (Academy of the Progressives) in the early 1580s, teaching with special emphasis on drawing from real life. Domenichino and Guido Reni trained at the academy.
Annibale, the most talented of the family was called to Rome by Cardinal Odoardo Farnese in 1595 to decorate the Farnese family palace and created the fresco cycle in the Galleria Farnese of the Loves of the Gods. He is also known for his landscapes.
In 1606 He almost entirely gave up on painting after a nervous breakdown. He died in 1609 and is buried, according to his request, near Raphael in the Pantheon.
Agostino assisted Annibale in decorating the Farnese Palace from 1570 to 1600 but he was important mainly as a teacher and engraver, and his engravings of anatomical studies were used as teaching aids for nearly two centuries. Agostino spent his last years working in Parma decorating the ceiling of Palazzo de Giardino.
Most of Ludovico's art is in Bologna and he concentrated on directing the academy after his cousins left for Rome. He died in Bologna in 1619.

Annibale Carracci
Landscape with Penitent Magdalen
Galleria Doria Pamphilj


Annibale Carracci Art in Rome
Galleria Doria Pamphilj
The Flight into Egypt
The Ecstasy of St Francis
Landscape with the Penitent Magdalen
Chiron and Achilles
Triptych of Christ
Holy Family
Jupiter and Juno
The Laughing Youth
Samson Imprisoned
Galleria Colonna
The Beaneater
Cerasi Chapel Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Translation of the Holy House
Chiesa di Santa Caterina della Rosa
St Margaret
Palazzo Farnese
frescoes including Triumph of Bacchus
Homage to Diana

Agostino Carracci Art in Rome
Ecstasy of St Catherine
St Francis receiving the Stigmata
Antonio Marziale Carracci (son)


Ludovico Carracci Art in Rome
An Angel Frees the Souls of Purgatory
The Trinity with the Dead Christ
Madonna and Child with St Francis

Helpful Hints

Getting Around

I found walking Rome was the best way to see everything.

The metro, trams and buses are also an easy and cheap option.

Buses and the metro can get crowded. Tickets must be bought before boarding and validated.

Beware of pickpockets.

Buses 40 (express) and 64 start at Termini and end near Saint Peter's, traveling past places of interest, returning the same way.


Some stops along the 64 route are:

Repubblica

Piazza Venezia

Via Nazionale

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II


Bus 75 takes you past the Colosseum to Trastevere

Bus 910 takes you to Villa Borghese


Ticket Options

€1.50 B.I.T (Biglietto Integrato a Tempo) is the standard ticket valid for one metro, unlimited tram or bus rides within 100 minutes.


€7.00 B.I.G ( Biglietto Integrato a Giornaliero) is a daily ticket valid for unlimited metro, tram, bus and train travel within Rome.


Purchasing Bus and Metro tickets.

Newsstands, train stations, metro stations, kiosks with the ATAC logo and tabacchi shops sell tickets for the metro, trams and buses.

Large fines apply to travelers not holding or validating their ticket. Tickets once validated start from the time they have been stamped.






These are a few of my favourite books about Rome

The Cardinal's Hat by Mary Hollingsworth
This book tells the story of one of the sons of Lucrezia Borgia who became a cardinal during the 16th century.

The Tigress of Forli by Elizabeth Lev
I love this book telling the story of Caterina Sforza who was fighting against the Borgia pope to retain the rights of her land and her freedom.

The Popes by John Julius Norwich
A detailed but easy and enjoyable book to read about the history of the papacy and the popes.

The Pope's Daughter by Caroline P Murphy
This book describes in beautiful detail, the life and times of Pope Julius II daughter, Felice della Rovere.

The Families Who Made Rome by Anthony Majanlahti
I love this Book! It explains the families who made Rome what it is as we see it today and also looks at their triumphs, scandals and failures.

Rome by Robert Hughes
This book explains Rome from its beginning and expands on the Renaissance and Baroque until present times.

The Lost Painting by Jonathan Harr
Another of my favourite reads about a lost Caravaggio painting and the search for its provenance.





other sites I trust for information on Rome are:
Rome Art Lover
Churches of Rome wiki