Thursday, January 30, 2014

Giovanni Odazzi

San Bernardo alle Terme

Giovanni Odazzi 1663 - 1731
Giovanni Odazzi was a painter during the Baroque period. He was a pupil of Ciro Ferri and worked and studied under the direction of Giovanni Battista Gaulli (il Baciccio). He worked mainly in Rome and was commissioned to paint many altarpieces and frescoes and became a member of the Accademia San Luca.
One of his earliest know works was for Santa Maria in Aracoeli.
In  1709 he went on to decorate above the sanctuary in Santi Apostoli, a fresco depicting the Fall of Lucifer and the Rebel Angels.
In 1710 he was given the commission from Cardinal Giovanni Maria Gabrielli to paint two canvases for San Bernardo alle Terme, during this time he also completed an altar painting for Santa Maria della Scala in Trastevere.
He was commissioned by Pope Clement XI to decorate San Clemente with a fresco panel in 1714 and in 1718 worked on San Giovanni in Laterano.


Apparition of the Virgin Mary to St Bruno
Santa Maria degli Angeli
Giovanni Odazzi Art in Rome
San Giovanni in Laterano
Santi Apostoli
Fall of Lucifer and the Rebel Angels
Santa Maria in Aracoeli
Santa Maria degli Angeli
Santa Maria della Scala
San Clemente
Santa Maria in Via Lata
San Bernardo alle Terme
Sant'Andrea al Quirinale


Wednesday, January 29, 2014

San Pietro in Montorio


where: Piazza di San Pietro in Montorio/Gianicolo
open: church is open 8:30-12:00 daily
Temple of Bramante opens Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30-12:00 & 14:00-16:30
getting there: #8 tram to Trastevere/Mastai or walk up the stairway of Vicolo del Cedro onto Via Garibaldi


Above Trastevere, near to the white marble fountain (Fontana dell'Aqua Paola) on the Gianicolo Hill, is San Pietro in Montorio.
A church was first constructed here in the 9th century – during medieval times here was believed to be the place Saint Peter was crucified upside down.
In the early 16th century a new church was built and Bramante was commissioned by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand of Spain to design the Tempietto (1502) in the cloister, to mark the place where the saint was thought to have been martyred. Because of his Spanish connections the Spanish Borgia pope, Alexander VI personally oversaw the consecration of the church.

Once, at the high altar was the Transfiguration, one of Raphael's last works, but during Napoleon's occupation of Rome it was removed and taken to Paris. When the painting was returned to Rome it was then sent to the art gallery in the Vatican Museums.
At the high altar is the Crucifixion of Saint Peter by late-Baroque artist Vincenzo Camuccini. This is a copy of Guido Reni's painting, also now in the Vatican Pinacoteca.

On the right hand side of the church, starting at the first chapel, is the Flagellation of Christ (1518) by Sebastiano del Piombo.
In the second chapel is the Madonna of the Letter fresco by Niccolò Circignani (il Pomeranccio) dating from 1550.
In the fourth chapel is Giorgio Vasari's ceiling fresco. He also decorated the fifth chapel with the Conversion of Saint Paul.

On the left side of the church, in the first chapel are frescoes by Giovanni de'Vecchi.
The second chapel on the left was designed by Gianlorenzo Bernini in 1640.
The fourth chapel was decorated by Dutch Baroque artist, Dirck van Baburen. Influenced by the style of Caravaggio, this was his most important commission in Rome.
The last chapel on the left is the Baptism of Christ attributed to Daniele da Volterra.

The tragic story of Beatrice Cenci is entwined with the history of the church. She was a young Roman noblewoman condemned to death by Pope Clement XIII in the 16th century after her involvement in the murder of her abusive father. Her will requested that she be buried inside the church – although there is debate to whether she was interred at the high altar or in another chapel. 

Sebastiano del Piombo


Artists in San Pietro in Montorio
Sebastiano del Piombo
Dirk Van Baburen
Antoniazzo Romano
Giovanni de Vecchio
Niccolò Circignani
Giulio Mazzoni
Baldassare Peruzzi
Michelangelo Cerruti
Giorgio Vasari
Daniele da Volterra



Santa Brigida

where: Piazza Farnese
open: not available

This little convent church on the right side of Piazza Farnese is dedicated to Saint Bridget of Sweden.
It was built in the 16th century with the late-Baroque facade added by Andrea Fucina in 1705.
Inside is the ceiling painting from 1709 by Biagio Puccino, thought to be inspired by il Baciccio's ceiling in il Gesù.
In the right hand side chapel is a copy of the lost Annibale Carracci painting of Our Lady and the Holy Child by Virginio Monti.




Saturday, January 25, 2014

Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

where: Piazza di Santa Cecilia, Trastevere
open: 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:00

Weaving through the streets of Trastevere I came across the Piazza di Santa Cecilia and an imposing white building. I walked through the archway and found myself in the tranquil courtyard of the church of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.

The church is dedicated to third century martyr, Cecilia, patron saint of Musicians, whose house was thought to have been on this site.

The church interior is decorated in white with gold stucco. The nave ceiling vault shows the Coronation of St Cecilia in Heaven and was painted by Sebastiano Conca around 1727.
On the right and left aisles are altarpieces by Giuseppe Ghezzi, Giovanni Baglione and Giuseppe Cesari.
The Chapel of the Bath leads off from the right hand aisle and holds a tondo of the Marriage of Saints Cecilia and Valerian and an altarpiece of the Beheading of Saint Cecilia by Guido Reni from 1603.

A miraculous discovery was made in 1599 during a restoration of the church interior for the Holy Year of 1600. When the shrine belonging to Saint Cecilia was being redesigned her tomb was opened, inside was her incorrupted body.
Stefano Maderno based his sculpture of Santa Cecilia in the sanctuary on what was documented when the body was found.

The entrance to the underground crypt is at the rear of the left aisle and guide books can be bought here.

The first know church was built here in the 9th century to hold the relics of saints moved here from the catacombs.




Sebastiano Conca


Giovanni Baglione

Giuseppe Cesari 






Stefano Maderno

Artists in Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
Stefano Maderno
Sebastiano Conca
Paul Brill


Santa Maria della Pietà


where: Piazza di Monte Savello
getting there: near Ponte Fabricio and the Jewish Ghetto
open: times not available

This small church is from the 12th century built on what was thought to be the birthplace of Saint Gregory the Great. It is also known as San Gregorio della Divina Pietà or San Gregorio a Ponte Quattro Capi.
In the 16th century, when the Jews of Rome were forced into the Ghetto by Pope Paul IV, one of the gates to the Jewish Ghetto was next door to the church, the church was then used as a place where compulsory sermons were to be attended.
The church was completely rebuilt in 1729 with the facade and oval painting depicting the Crucifixion with St Gregory kneeling, it then belonged to the congregation responsible for the protection of families from the aristocracy who had fallen on hard times. The interior was later redesigned in 1858 with frescoes by Giuseppe Serini.

San Bartolomeo all'Isola


where: Piazza San Bartolomeo all'Isola/Tiber Island
hours: 9:00-13:00 & 15:30-17:30

This minor basilica was built in the 10th century on orders of the Holy Roman Emperor Otto III to house the remains of Saint Bartholomew the Apostle and the Bishop of Prague, Saint Adalbert.
The church has been restored many times over the centuries due to flooding of the Tiber, with the Baroque facade added in 1624.
The church has important frescoes and paintings by Antonio Marziale Carracci, son of Agostino Carracci, who was commissioned to decorate the church interior in 1608.


Friday, January 24, 2014

Santa Maria in Trastevere

where: Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
getting there: short walk from the Porta Settimiana
open: 8:00-20:00 daily

The minor basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is said to be one of the oldest churches built in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary. 
Dating from the 4th century it is also one of the first churches that openly celebrated mass during this time.
The church was restored in the 5th and 8th centuries. In 1140 Pope Innocent II ordered the demolition of the church and removal of the tomb of the anti-pope Anacletus II. He then commissioned the church to be rebuilt using twenty-two granite columns thought to be from the Baths of Caracalla.
The facade mosaics are attributed to Pietro Cavallini.
The apse is decorated by mosaics from the 12 century and the 13th century mosaic panels are also by Pietro Cavallini.
The apse ceiling panels depicting the Assumption of the Virgin were by Domenichino and date to 1617.









Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Santa Barbara dei Librai

where: Largo dei Librai
getting there: near Piazza Farnese

It is thought that Santa Barbara dei Librai was built in the 10 or 11th century. It was rebuilt in the late 17th century and belonged to the guild of bookmakers and booksellers. The little Baroque church was dedicated to Saint Barbara, the martyred virgin from the third century. 
In the late 19th century the church was deconsecrated and used as a warehouse. It was finally rescued and restored in the nineteen-eighties, reconsecrated and again used as a church and venue for music concerts.
The interior walls are cleverly decorated with imitation marble. Above, on the vault ceiling, is the Apotheosis of Saint Barbara by Luigi Garzi, who also decorated the Chapel of the Crucifix and the transept walls with frescoes.
Other works date from the 19th century restoration by Domenico Monacelli who was commissioned to complete the frescoes in the transept and apse and retouch the ceiling by Garzi.
Of interest is the painting of Saint Saba in the Specchi Chapel on the left by Giovanni Battista Brughi, pupil of il Baciccio. 



Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Santa Caterina da Siena

where: Via Giulia,
getting there: walk down Via Giulia until you see the Arco dei Farnese
open: Monday to Saturday 17:00-18:30, Sundays 9:30-12:00

This beautiful church on the Via Giulia is considered to be the last church of the Baroque in Rome. First built around 1526 with donations from papal friend and wealthy banker, Agostino Chigi and other nobles from Siena who were living around this area in Rome, it was dedicated to Saint Catherine of Siena, their patron saint. 
In 1766 the church was rebuilt after major damage was caused by the flooding of the Tiber River. 
During the 18th century the church was again rebuilt and many of the original artworks were lost. Most of the artwork in the church that we see today comes from the time of this rebuilding. 

Artists in Santa Caterina da Siena
Gerolamo Genga
Ermenegildo Constantino
Tommaso Conca
Pietro Angeletti
Lorenzo Pecheux
Salvatori Monosillo
Domenico Corvi
Ercole Ferrata


San Giovanni dei Fiorentini



where: Piazza dell'Oro/near Via Guilia
open: 7:30-12:30 & 17:0019:00

The building of the Baroque church of San Giovanni dei Fiorentini first began in 1519 when Medici pope, Leo X, asked for a new church to be built on the site of one dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, the protector of Florence. Construction stopped and started many times until it was finally completed in 1734.
Inside the church at the main altar are the white marble sculptures of the Baptism of Christ (1668) by Antonio Raggi, with above, Faith by Ercole Ferrata and Charity by Domenico Giudi, at the top are statues of Justice by Michel Anguier and Strength by Leonardo Retti.
 In the first chapel on the right is an altar painting attributed to Passignano from 1639, another of his works, Saint Jerome Supervising the Building of a Monastery dates from 1599 and can be found in the third chapel on the right.
In the Chapel of the Virgin there is an altarpiece attributed to Filippino Lippi of the Virgin and Child.
The Sacchetti Chapel, entirely decorated by Giovanni Lanfranco from 1621 to 1623, depicts on the right wall the Prayer of Jesus in the Garden, the left wall Christ on Calvary and Christ in Glory on the ceiling.
In the Firenzuola Chapel there are side frescoes attributed to Orazio Gentileschi.

Giovanni Lanfranco


Artists in San Giovanni dei Fiorentini
Domenico Cresti Passignano
Ludovico Cardi
Salvator Rosa
Agostino Ciampelli
Santi di Tito
Giovanni Battista Vanni
Anastasio Fontebuoni
Nicolò Circignani
Giuseppe Ghezzi
Flilppino Lippi


Helpful Hints

Getting Around

I found walking Rome was the best way to see everything.

The metro, trams and buses are also an easy and cheap option.

Buses and the metro can get crowded. Tickets must be bought before boarding and validated.

Beware of pickpockets.

Buses 40 (express) and 64 start at Termini and end near Saint Peter's, traveling past places of interest, returning the same way.


Some stops along the 64 route are:

Repubblica

Piazza Venezia

Via Nazionale

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II


Bus 75 takes you past the Colosseum to Trastevere

Bus 910 takes you to Villa Borghese


Ticket Options

€1.50 B.I.T (Biglietto Integrato a Tempo) is the standard ticket valid for one metro, unlimited tram or bus rides within 100 minutes.


€7.00 B.I.G ( Biglietto Integrato a Giornaliero) is a daily ticket valid for unlimited metro, tram, bus and train travel within Rome.


Purchasing Bus and Metro tickets.

Newsstands, train stations, metro stations, kiosks with the ATAC logo and tabacchi shops sell tickets for the metro, trams and buses.

Large fines apply to travelers not holding or validating their ticket. Tickets once validated start from the time they have been stamped.






These are a few of my favourite books about Rome

The Cardinal's Hat by Mary Hollingsworth
This book tells the story of one of the sons of Lucrezia Borgia who became a cardinal during the 16th century.

The Tigress of Forli by Elizabeth Lev
I love this book telling the story of Caterina Sforza who was fighting against the Borgia pope to retain the rights of her land and her freedom.

The Popes by John Julius Norwich
A detailed but easy and enjoyable book to read about the history of the papacy and the popes.

The Pope's Daughter by Caroline P Murphy
This book describes in beautiful detail, the life and times of Pope Julius II daughter, Felice della Rovere.

The Families Who Made Rome by Anthony Majanlahti
I love this Book! It explains the families who made Rome what it is as we see it today and also looks at their triumphs, scandals and failures.

Rome by Robert Hughes
This book explains Rome from its beginning and expands on the Renaissance and Baroque until present times.

The Lost Painting by Jonathan Harr
Another of my favourite reads about a lost Caravaggio painting and the search for its provenance.





other sites I trust for information on Rome are:
Rome Art Lover
Churches of Rome wiki